Throughout the years we have come up with a list of frequently asked questions.
Please feel free to e-mail us with any questions that you might like to see answered on this page.
Cost will vary with the type of structure and the locality.Our systems range from Nine hundred fifty dollars, ($950) upward depending upon the structure, location and type of system installed in the home.
Radon levels in the home change virtually minute by minute. They are affected by a myriad of factors. Levels vary seasonally. Typically, wintertime levels are much higher than in summer. Daytime and nighttime levels will vary. Indoor radon levels will change in accordance with winds and local weather conditions. High Pressure systems with calm clear conditions will facilitate radon’s escape from the soil outside while wet and stormy conditions that typically accompany low pressure tend to make it more difficult for the gas to escape from the surrounding soil. The negative pressure zone created by the home becomes more attractive and indoor levels rise.
There is quite a bit that can be done in the building phase to prevent or minimize radon problems. Before a structure is completed it is impossible to determine how much radon it will attract. Every house will have a unique pressurization signature that it will apply to the soil. This pressure is the result of the heating, ventilation, plumbing and drainage systems working in unison to create a living environment.
We work with many area builders to assist them in preparing the home for mitigation. Years ago, the EPA advised builders to lay a grid work of drainage pipe beneath the slab floor, and then stub a riser pipe above the floor where a mitigation system could be connected if needed. This strategy tended to create a major infiltration liability by giving the gas direct access to the living space. The foundation crew is often vague about the interior design of the home, and stub pipes are often left in locations that end up under living rooms and kitchen areas making long runs of awkward piping to reach a pipe route through the structure.
There are se veral steps that can and should be taken during construction that will minimize infiltration and costs should a system be needed. It is best to work towards maintaining the integrity of the slab in all cases. Sump pits should be installed with a sealed cover if they need to be installed. Floor drains should be trapped or utilize a gas tight radon drain.
Most importantly, a radon pipe (3 or 4-inch pvc- schedule 40) should be routed from the basement to the attic during the framing process. At this stage builder installed piping can be of help if a system is required.
There is no real way to avoid radon infiltration without creating a negative pressure field below the slab. There are several things that can be addressed by the home owner that are inexpensive and may help reduce radon levels.
In most basements there are various sealing tasks that should be performed during mitigations . Covering sump pits and closing the openings around sewer and water piping can slow down infiltration rates in some cases. During warm weather a home owner can reduce radon infiltration by increasing ventilation. In addition to opening windows throughout the structure it is a good idea to have a small fan in a basement window that brings air in to the basement. This will not only dilute any radon at the lowest level, but it also puts a positive pressure on the basement which reduces the overall negative pressure the home puts on the soil.Understand that these measures are not a mitigation or even a solution during the heating season. However, they can drastically reduce annual exposure rates.
One of the great things about the web is the tremendous amount of information that is out there about just about anything. Radon is no exception. Here are a number of places that we think provide good information. We suggest that you read the materials carefully, keeping in mind the source and their various perspectives and agendas.